Things to Do in Cameroon Art Museum

Mask Gallery on the Second Floor

Upstairs, the mask gallery hits you with the smell of raffia fiber and camwood powder - those reddish masks from the Western Highlands still carry traces of ceremonial pigments. The lighting is deliberately dim, so the hollow eyes seem to follow your movement across the squeaking parquet.

Contemporary Sculpture Courtyard

Push through the glass doors and you're hit by warmer air and the metallic smell of rust - out here, recycled steel sculptures from Douala artists stand among bougainvillea. You can walk around (and touch) the weather-beaten pieces, something the guards inside never allow.

Basement Textile Vault

Down the spiral staircase, drawers slide open to reveal indigo-dyed cotton strips from the North, still smelling faintly of fermented-leaf dye. The cool air feels dry against your face, a relief from the equatorial humidity upstairs, and the silence is broken only by the hum of dehumidifiers.

Sunday Drum Circle in the Garden

On the last Sunday of each month, the museum's back garden fills with the thud of goatskin drums and the sweet smoke of grilling plantain. Local dance troupes rehearse in full Bamileke costume, beads rattling as spectators join the circle.

Rooftop Photo Exhibit

Climb the narrow servants' stair to the roof terrace where temporary photo exhibits hang on wire lines, fluttering in the breeze that carries the faint diesel smell of downtown traffic. The panoramic skyline of Yaoundé - half-finished high-rises against emerald hills - frames every shot you take.

Bastos - a leafy embassy zone where bougainvillea spills over compound walls and breakfast cafes open onto quiet streets

Centre Ville around the post office, handy for evening beer gardens and late-night roasted fish stands

Mvog Ada market district, budget-friendly but lively. Roosters wake you at dawn

Olembé valley, cooler air, villa-style guesthouses, good if you want mountain views without leaving town

Ekoudou, walking distance to the museum, small family-run lodges set in former private homes

Nlongkak, student quarter full of cheap grilled-meat spots and shared rooftop terraces